OBJECTIVE: IMPROVING SKIN PROTECTION AND HYDRATION AND ENSURING SKIN TONE UNIFORMITY
The epidermis is the most superficial layer of the skin. Its main role is to protect the body against external aggressions while ensuring a good hydration to the skin via its barrier function.
The epidermis is a stratified epithelium composed 4 to 5 layers depending on the level of keratinocyte differentiation, and there are several types of cells with distinct properties:
- Keratinocytes form a real protective wall that protects the skin from external aggressions and preserves the skin’s moisture through the barrier function.
- Melanocytes are the cells that synthesize melanin which role is to absorb UV and thus to protect the skin against solar radiation. Melanin is a dark pigment, it will also modulate the complexion (phototype, homogeneity …)
The epidermis as a target of choice
Over time, or because of some stress, the epidermis becomes thinner, the skin becomes dry and more and more vulnerable.
By specifically targetting the epidermis, we will be able to address several cosmetic claims:
- Hydration / barrier function
- Wound healing
- Skin tone uniformity
To meet these expectations, Exsymol has developed actives that specifically target the epidermis, and more precisely some cells that compose it.
Specific action on keratinocytes
Hydration / barrier function: Strengthening the cohesion between keratinocytes
Some proteins are markers of hydration in the epidermis.
- Filaggrin ensures good cohesion between keratinocytes to limit water loss
- Aquaporin ensures the intracellular hydration of keratinocytes
Protection: Strengthening the skin defensive capacities
Pollution, UV radiation and some stress affect the integrity of the epidermis.
Regeneration : Stimulating keratinocyte proliferation
By increasing the number of keratinocytes, the thickness of the epidermis is increased. The most superficial wrinkles are filled, the skin is better hydrated and better protected.
Wound healing : Ensuring keratinocyte proliferatio and migration
After an injury, keratinocytes must recolonize the space. But with age or because of stress, their migratory capacity decreases which affects the entire wound healing process.
Targetting stem cells or transiant amplifying (TA) cells
Some actives target specific populations of keratinocytes such as stem cells or progenitor cells (transiant amplifying cells).
Resynchronizing keratinocytes and biorythmchrono
Age, fatigue, jet lag, etc. can desynchronize keratinocyte metabolisms which can have an effect on the epidermis quality.
Specific action on melanocytes
Normalizing melanocyte activity for regulating skin complexion
The main role of melanocytes is to produce melanin. When their activity is disturbed, it affects the skin tone homogeneity, especially by causing age spots.
Stimulating melanocyte activity for sublimating the tan
Melanocytes produce melanin from tyrosine aminoacid. By providing tyrosine to melanocytes, their ability to synthesize melanin is facilitated.
This leads to a natural tan improvement.