Whitening – Lightening – Blemish corrector
Alternative melanogenesis inhibition
VOS ATTENTES
Whether purely aesthetic or to correct imperfections in the complexion, skin whitening or lightening are widely sought after in cosmetics. This is even truer for Asian markets where white skin is a stamp of beauty.
The main way to have a whitening effect is to inhibit melanogenesis, the synthesis of melanin (the pigment responsible for tanning).
EXSYMOL’s answer
How it works
Melanogenesis is the synthesis of melanin from tyrosine. The reaction is made possible by an enzyme – tyrosinase – which acts as a catalyst in some early stages of the reaction (oxidation of tyrosine into L-DOPA and then L-dopaquinone).
“Traditional” melanogenesis inhibitors are in fact tyrosinase inhibitors. By limiting its action, melanin synthesis is also limited.
Albatin is not a tyrosinase inhibitor but stabilizes DOPAchrome and prevents it from being rearranged as DHI (dihydroxyindole) or its acid form DHICA. In this way, Albatin blocks melanogenesis.
General properties
ALBATIN (INCI name: AMINOETHYLPHOSPHINIC ACID) is a molecule that is synthesized in our laboratories according to the principles of green chemistry.
The molecule blocks melanogenesis without interfering with the action of tyrosinase, enabling synergy with its inhibitors.
Cosmetic benefits
Consumer benefits
- Skin lightener
- Whitening effect
- Blemish corrector
- Uniform complexion
Skin benefits
- Melanogenesis inhibition via a complementary/alternative mechanism (independently of tyrosinase)
Customer benefits
- Strong synergy with tyrosinase inhibitors
The expert’s opinion
DOPAchrome stabilization
Albatin is not a tyrosinase inhibitor, but because it acts on the same signaling cascade, by combining them a synergy is created which considerably reduces melanin synthesis for clear uniform skin.
Safe melanogenesis inhibition
Some whiteners can have side-effects (inflammation, redness, etc.). The use of ALBATIN has a long-lasting and ongoing lightening effect without impacting skin quality.
Combined with ALISTIN or a SILANOL, two different approaches
Combined with ALISTIN, the anti-yellowing effect of which we have demonstrated, the aim is a fast and overall effect.
Combine ALBATIN with a suitable SILANOL for a long-term approach: Keep all the benefits while ensuring that skin health isn’t affected by melanin inhibition (UV resistance, etc.).
Synergy with tyrosinase inhibitors
ALBATIN can be combined in formulations with widely used lighteners like arbutin, ascorbic acid, hydroquinone, etc., to inhibit melanin production overall by using two complementary mechanisms in synergy which act on the same metabolism.